Life in Dar es Saalam part 2

March 31, 2023
AFRICA

A week later, we got more volunteers from Croatia and Germany. These are the activities we did a week before I left for Zanzibar.

Visited Hotel Slipway

Hotel Slipaway

Hotel Slipway is located about 7 km from Dar es Salaam city, right by the ocean overlooking Msasani Bay. It was on the opposite side from where we were staying, which meant we had to take the ferry. My friends weren’t thrilled by the idea, but I didn’t mind it at all.

The ferry experience felt somewhat similar to the one back home in Diani, except this one was more organized. You had to pay regardless of whether you had a car or not, unlike the one back home. There’s also the option of taking a taxi and using the Nyerere Bridge if ferries aren’t your thing.

After crossing, we hopped on a tuk-tuk to Hotel Slipway. On the way, I noticed a stark contrast between the Masaki area and our residence in Kigamboni. This was clearly one of the more affluent neighborhoods in Dar es Salaam—super clean, smooth roads, and lined with posh buildings. At one point, the road curved along the ocean, and for a moment, it genuinely felt like Cape Town.

Hotel Slipway itself was a classic tourist hub, buzzing with visitors. Before even reaching the hotel, we passed a large curio shopping area. My friends were eager to explore it, but it wasn’t anything new to me—we have plenty of curio shops back in Kenya.

We eventually settled on a restaurant right by the ocean, with incredible views, good food, and music playing in the background. The vibes were immaculate. From there, we headed back toward the beach in Kigamboni.

Visited a Buddhist Temple

Longqua Tanhua Monastery

Let me backtrack to the first time I arrived in Dar es Salaam. I took a one-night layover at a hostel in Kinondoni. While there, I met a Chinese man who was traveling around Africa and had already been in Dar es Salaam for about a month. He happened to be volunteering at a Buddhist temple as a translator, helping translate from Chinese to English.

The temple was run by Chinese monks who didn’t speak English, so his role was essential. He invited me to visit, and since when do I ever say no to a new experience? It would be my first time visiting a Buddhist temple, and I had absolutely no idea what Buddhism entailed. I was about to find out.

A Buddhist temple was the last thing I expected to encounter in Dar es Salaam, a city where Islam has a strong presence. Unsurprisingly, this turned out to be the only Buddhist temple in the city. It’s called Longquan Tanhua Monastery, and it’s run by Chinese monks who have adopted orphans from the city and are raising them according to Buddhist teachings.

The children, aged between six and ten, are taught Chinese and begin their days early—waking up at 5:30 a.m. for Buddhist prayer sessions. Seeing African children speaking fluent Chinese was something I had never encountered before, and it was fascinating to witness.

My friend gave me a tour of the temple, and at one point, one of the monks handed me a small gift bag. He didn’t say a word—just bowed gently—leading me to wonder if he had taken a vow of silence. Inside the bag was a bracelet, a few sweets, and a piece of fruit. It felt unusual, but incredibly kind.

The highlight of my visit was taking part in a Buddhist fortune-telling ritual. I shook a bundle of sticks inside a wooden container until one fell out. The stick had a number on it, which was then translated into a fortune. Apparently, I’m destined to be successful in farming, and my first child will be a son—make of that what you will.

That day, I also learned that the Nazis appropriated the swastika symbol from ancient religions like Buddhism and Hinduism, completely distorting its original meaning. Outrageous, really.

Performing the fortune telling ritual at Longquan Tanhua Monastery

There was another volunteer at the temple, this time from Australia. He was there while conducting research on Buddhism for his master’s thesis. I was genuinely impressed by how fluent he was in Swahili—it had only taken him six months to learn. Meeting people like him, who were traveling the world and immersing themselves fully in different cultures, gave me even more motivation to keep exploring and chasing endless possibilities.

My friend showed me around the temple grounds, including a small farm where they were growing crops. I got to meet some of the workers and spend time with the children as well. The temple was located right next to the beach, so afterward we went to relax by the ocean before I returned to the children’s village. That day turned out to be one of the most adventurous days I had in Dar es Salaam, and I’m truly glad I made the visit.

Attending Tanzania’s Saba Saba Day

Every 7th of July, Tanzania celebrates Saba Saba Day, a national holiday marked by a large trade expo where businesses from all sectors come to showcase what they do. Banks, mining companies, tech firms, wine companies—you name it. The turnout is massive. Parents bring their children, and the whole event feels like a fun fair.

I attended the event after being invited by the cook who worked at Human Dreams Children’s Village. We had become good friends during my time there, and she decided to take her kids along and invited me to join them. The turnout was massive. Parents brought their children, and the whole event felt more like a fun fair than a business expo.

It reminded me of my childhood, when we used to attend an event simply called “Show,” where companies marketed themselves and there were plenty of activities for kids. The chef at the children’s village invited me and the other volunteers to attend; she was taking her kids along as well.

The venue was packed, both with people and exhibitors. Walking around with children was slightly stressful—it’s easy for a kid to get lost if you’re not careful. One funny moment stood out: a man standing next to a wine stall was loudly shaming anyone who stopped to sample the wine. Meanwhile, we were tasting wine as he yelled beside us.

I also remember asking a mineral company about the price of Tanzanite, and that conversation quickly ended my plans of buying it as a souvenir. Tanzanite can be more expensive than gold due to its rarity, and that was enough to make me rethink.

Exploring Dar es Salaam City

On the same day I visited the Buddhist temple, I started my morning running errands. I was on my own this time, taking care of personal tasks. First, I needed to pay for my ferry ticket to Zanzibar since the online booking system wasn’t working. I couldn’t help but feel a bit excited when I was told that East African citizens pay less than other tourists. That’s the spirit of regional brotherhood—I paid $35 instead of $50. Every coin counts when you’re a budget traveler.

Next, I needed to withdraw cash, and I was pleasantly surprised to find that my Kenyan bank had a branch in Dar es Salaam. That meant lower withdrawal fees, especially after previously being charged a hefty amount using a Tanzanian bank ATM.

I navigated the city using Google Maps, and Dar es Salaam reminded me so much of Nairobi—only cheaper. I’d be lying if I said I didn’t briefly imagine what it would be like to live there permanently. Who wouldn’t want to live in a vibrant city right next to the ocean? There are quite a number of skyscrapers, and the city felt cleaner than Nairobi. I enjoyed simply walking around and taking in the architecture.

Dar es Salaam is a beautiful city, and its proximity to Zanzibar makes it even more appealing. When city life gets overwhelming, a quick escape to the islands is always within reach—and that, in my opinion, makes it an incredible place to live.

Diana Ogutu

Finding pieces of myself in every place I go.

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